This is one of those desserts that looks complicated, but is super easy. From start to finish, it takes about a half hour of work, plus an hour of refrigerator time. My only caveat is that it contains raw eggs. It’s really no biggie so long as your eggs are fresh. But you might not […]
Right now, I’m making chicken stock. And the smell, from across the house, is making me so ravenous that it’s hard to concentrate on work. There may be smells more delicious, or more cerebrally appealing. But so far as I can tell, there is none that smells so much like Food — primal, meaty, nutritious, […]
For almost a year, I’ve considered writing some reflections here about tomato sauce, how to make it, and how to use it to make lots of other yummy things. I’ve dithered and delayed and thought to myself — this is too long and involved to write today. And now, after my experience eating in Greece […]
I’ve made a lot of roasted chicken over the past year and a half. I’ve done them simple. I’ve done them complicated. I’ve brined them and dry-rubbed them and poked butter under their skin. And I’ve had more than a few of them turn out really well. Probably the best chicken I’ve made was one […]
I’ve been playing a lot with rustic bread, and specifically with Ciabatta, recently. And I’ve had a couple of thoughts. They’re probably obvious if you know anything about artisan baking, but I’m kind of figuring it out as I go along. I don’t in any sense think that I’ve got it right yet. In fact, […]
Coq au vin (with green beans and fresh pain au levain), as it turned out, was my early Valentine’s Day dinner for Sarah. After waffling for a while, I ended up looking at a couple of recipes, doing some reading about the theory behind the dish, then coming up with my own method. I’d always […]
prosewitch has me thinking about rustic bread. She mentioned something about a sourdough ciabatta-like loaf that she put together the other day, and I suppose that it just sort of put me in that kind of mood. So I got out my sourdough starter, threw in a tiny bit of rye, and this is what […]
I decided last week that I wanted to do a cheddar brioche in the style of Caffe Strada in Berkeley. I used to love them; they were my breakfast or lunch more often than I would care to admit. But when I went looking for the right cheddar for the project, I came upon Mimolette […]