Category Archives: Brewing

Spent Grain Bread

I love spent grain bread. It’s one of my very favorite things about brewing.

You see: brewing is sort of a wasteful process. You take eight or ten or twelve pounds of grain, soak it in water, and convert the runnings from that little bath into five gallons of sweet wort, and then eventually into five gallons of beer.

And all of that is great. And tasty. But when the process is done, it’s not as though the grain has disappeared. It’s given up its sugars to the noble cause of fermentation. But at the end of the day — once the wort is in the bucket — you still have a big, soggy pile of husks and what-have-you left over. And about that, something must be done.

It helps to have a compost pile. I don’t know a lot about the chemistry of compost. But I do know that the microbial life that converts yard waste into nutritious dirt loves — loves! — spent grains. Sarah and I toss them into the bin and in what seems like no time at all, they’re gone. Digested. Swept away by the pixies that keep our garden’s ecology going.

But even so — even though I know that by composting the grain, I’m turning it into something good — it always seems a shame to just make it disappear. One of the habits I’ve picked up brewing is to chew on spent grain while I’m doing my boil. And though it’s nothing you’d want to swallow in that state — it’s plenty tasty. Those maltsters, after all, know how coax flavor from their catch.

And so, with that in mind, one thing I’ve started doing is holding back some of the spent grains. I’ve been sticking them in the freezer in individual two-cup packages, with the idea that I’ll bake with them later. Most of the grain still gets composted. But between brewing days, I get four or five chances to make lovely, rich, moist-in-the-middle spent grain bread that’s high in fiber, and hardy enough that one or two slices is, by itself, enough to constitute a meal.

It’s lovely. And I’d highly recommend that you try it.

Before I show you how it’s done, though, a quick note: this, like the ciabatta I did a couple of weeks ago, is not a beginner’s bread. The dough is wet and hard to work with. It helps to have a stand mixer. And it’s imperative that you have a baking stone.

If you have some experience baking, I say go for it. Otherwise, you might want to lower the hydration to somewhere between 360 and 370 grams of water. Or you might want to look at this whole grain brown bread, which will be much easier to do.

400 grams Water
400 grams Whole Wheat Flour
150 grams Unbleached AP Flour
1 1/2 cups Spent Grains from brewing*
1/4 cup Flax Seeds (either ground or whole)
3 tbsp Molasses
1 1/2 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp Yeast

The Night Before: To the workbowl of your stand mixer, add 200 grams of the wheat flour, 400 grams of water, and the yeast. Mix thoroughly, and allow to stand covered on the counter overnight.

The Day Of: Add the rest of the ingredients to the bowl. With the dough hook attachment of your stand mixer, mix on low until everything comes together. Then turn the mixer to medium (I use setting 4 on the Kitchen Aid), and knead for about fifteen minutes. It will look more like batter than dough at first. But not to worry — it will firm up, at least a little.

When the dough is kneaded, form it into a ball as best you can and move it to an oiled bowl. After twenty minutes, and then again after forty, stretch and fold the dough, following the instructions here (this will firm it up considerably). Then allow it to rise, covered, for another two and a half hours, or until it has more than doubled in size.

When it is risen, move the dough to a well floured board (or counter). Gently form it into the shape of your choice (I chose a boule because I have a really convenient round brotform). Cover, and allow to proof for 50 minutes.

While it is proofing, set your oven up for hearth baking (yes — a stone, or at least an inverted cast iron pan, is essential for this bread), and preheat it as high as it will go (525F for me). Then flip the dough onto a parchment-lined pizza paddle, slide it into your oven, lower the oven temperature to 450F, and bake for 40 minutes, turning the bread halfway through.**

When the bread is cooked, remove it to a wire rack and allow to cool completely before slicing. It is especially well suited, I find, to breakfast. With jam. And maybe also Nutella.

(You can, of course, find many more fabulous bread recipes through Wild Yeast’s YeastSpotting Archive!)

* This recipe may also work with other cooked whole grains. But I haven’t tried it, so I couldn’t say for sure. Experiment! Then let me know!
** For improved crust, fill a spray bottle with water; and for the first two minutes that your bread is baking, spray the walls of the oven every 30 seconds. This will create steam, which will keep the surface of the bread moist, and allow a thicker crust to form. If you do this, don’t turn the oven down to 450F until you’ve finished. Opening the oven every 30 seconds loses a lot of heat.

Special Bitter, and Floor Malted Barley

So I’m making a new beer, probably next weekend.  It’ll be a Special Bitter — largely minimalist in hops and grain, and as true to the style as it exists in Britain as I can manage.  That means British hops, which I prefer anyway.  And it means Maris Otter malt, which has, for the past half-century or thereabouts, been the (well-deserved) standard malted barley for beer in the U.K.

Why has it been the standard, you ask?  Because it’s good.  Real good. It’s malty, complex, assertive, sprouted-barley goodness in a husk. Yum.

Anyway, as I was doing some electronic shopping for ingredients yesterday, I came across an interesting choice.  Northern Brewer (a supplier that I like very much) was offering ordinary Maris Otter.  Or, for just a couple of cents more, a floor malted variety.

Of course — I bought the floor malted.  To my basest consumerist instincts, it sounded “premium.”  And if I know I like the ordinary Maris Otter as X price, why would I not like super duper special Maris Otter for X price plus just a couple of cents?  It’s a product that hit my impulse-buy button for a lot of reasons, not the least of which being that “floor malted” sounds a lot like “heirloom,” and the folklorist in me certainly can’t resist that.

But the honest-to-goodness truth of it is that I didn’t know what floor malted means.  I knew that it was, in fact, an “heirloom” process, but what it entails, or how it differs from “modern” malting processes — well, beats me.  So once the internet-shopping brain numbness subsided, I went poking around on Google (actually DuckDuckGo) to find an answer.  And what I found was this, over at a blog called Beervana.  It’s a series of three videos, actually of a whiskey-producing operation in Scotland, in which the floor-malting process is revealed.

I ordinarily don’t do video, but so compelling did I find these that I decided that I’d give you a taste here.

And if you’re interested in the other two, you can find them at Beervana.

Meanwhile, here is the recipe that I plan to brew with next weekend.  If any of you out there have any suggestions you’d like to make, I’d be more than willing to listen.  So please do let me know.

8 lb Maris Otter Malt
.5 lb British Carastan Malt, Light
.5 lb CaraPils
1 tbsp British Chocolate Malt (to hopefully impart a bit of a red color to the wort)
2 oz UK Kent Golding Whole-Leaf Hops (1.5 oz for 50 minutes, .5 oz for 10 minutes)
Safale S-04 Yeast

Brown Porter Pictorial

I have been absent.  But I have not exactly been remiss.  Real life — academic obligations, travel to parts Midwestern, the lack of a working kitchen — has kept me from posting here for the past two weeks.  But this blog, and you, dear readers, have never been far from my thoughts.  Regular posting will continue soon.  But for the moment, please enjoy this.

I brewed on Saturday.  It was my first real foray into the kitchen since returning from the American Folklore Society Meetings.  I made the brown porter that I have been planning for the past month or so.  And it went off without a hitch.  A few hours in the kitchen, retrieving molasses-colored malty liquid from my mashed grain and doing an extra-long boil to encourage kettle-caramelization, and my house smelled — and still smells — like the most wonderful, sweet, lovely brewery I can imagine.  I cannot share with you those smells.  but I thought, in lieu of a real post, that I might share with you some pictures:

I hope that you will forgive my lack of words.  As I said, our regular schedule of recipes and culinary musings will return as soon as possible.

October is the Cruelest Month; or, Beer and Crazies

So where have I been, you might ask, friends of the blog that you all are. I haven’t seen you ’round much, you might say. Have you been avoiding us? Have you stopped writing? Have you cooked at all this week?

The answer, dear friends, is that no, I have not abandoned you. But life, such as it is, has stuck out its big ugly foot and tripped me up. By which I mean that the meetings of the American Folklore Society are coming up all too soon, and I have almost more to get done than I know how to finish.

This week I have been:

  • Organizing the last-minute details of transportation to, and accommodations in, Bloomington, IN, where this year’s meetings are being held.
  • I have been getting some stuff organized for the organization’s Folk Narrative Section, for which I am one of the parties responsible.
  • I have been considering the paper I am supposed to be presenting — on the inadequacy of previous theories of the study of Folklore in Literature, and why we should instead look toward a study of Literature as Folklore — and mostly shaking my head in despair.
  • Because I’ve have this other huge writing project on my plate, that I strongly feel I need to finish before AFS: the introduction to my dissertation.

Why stress about finishing said introduction now, you ask? Two reasons: 1) much of what I intend to say in the paper I’m presenting belongs to the introduction, and it is easier to write the long version and cut it down than it is to do the opposite; and 2) I would like to be able to show my dissertation committee that I have made some progress this year — I’d like to bring them drafts of two chapters, and plans for finishing the rest — but if I am to do that, I need to actually have two chapters to bring them, which means that I need to finish this infernal introduction.

So I guess that my answers, in fact, are that yes, I have been avoiding you. And that yes, I have largely stopped cooking this week.

Though that is not to say that food — or at least beer — has not been on my mind. When I get stressed, I obsess about the details of all sorts of trivial things, and given my recent proclivities toward malt-based recreational activities, beer has been the object of my stress-relieving research.

So here’s what I’ve come up with:

  • The reason that Brown Ale failed, and that Brown Ale II: The Wrath of Khan was slow to start, I think, has to do with water chemistry. I’m pretty sure that I amended my water with too much sodium, and as we know from bread-making, sodium retards the growth of yeast.
  • Brown Ale II, though, was resilient. I moved it into secondary fermentation on Monday, and found that it had fermented all the way out. Then I tasted it on Saturday, and found that not only is it beer, it’s really good beer — the overdose of sodium isn’t especially noticeable on the tongue. And it is malty and toasty, with exactly the crisp bitterness I was trying to achieve when I started monkeying with water chemistry in the first place.
  • I’ve also been planning a new beer: a brown porter. It’s not a genre to which I’ve had a huge amount of exposure in the past, but I’ve liked the specimens I’ve had, and the more I think about it, the more a winter filled with heavy-bodied dark beer goodness seems like a good plan. Mmmm … warming.
  • Finally, I’ve made a decision about said brown porter: for the first time ever in my brewing life, I’m using a dry yeast. I had been wanting to try a strain from the Whitbread brewery for a long time, and had been planning on using Wyeast’s liquid version. But the more I read about it, the more I think that the Safale dry version of the same is the way to go. It is fast to start, fast to ferment, and from the reviews I’ve looked at, almost foolproof. And given my recent yeast problems, it seems like the right strain for me.

Anyway, here is my brown porter recipe. I would very much appreciate any opinions and advice that you, friends of this blog, might offer. As I said, this is my first time around the block with this style.

6.00 lb. Maris Otter Malt
3.00 lb. British Brown Malt
1.00 lb. Victory Malt
1.00 lb. Crystal Malt, 60L
0.33 lb. British Chocolate Malt

1.00 oz. Northern Brewer Hops (boiled for 45 minutes)

Safale S-04 — Whitbread Yeast

Star Trek and Brown Ale

** Update: The answer, dear friends, to the question of whether my yeast problems would kill this beer, is a big, resounding yes.  I bought some additional yeast this morning, thinking that I would re-pitch.  And when I opened my fermentation vessel, what I found was kind of horrifying: colorful, clearly bacterial colonies floating on the surface, and a smell like curdled milk (be glad this blog isn’t scratch-and-sniff) that is unmatched by anything I’ve ever smelled in this house before.  Which is saying a lot.  Because our cleaning habits are — you know — spotty at best.

But as I said in the original post, whether it ended up fermenting or not, I learned quite a bit from this beer.  And the tentative plan right now is to reproduce my (otherwise) good results this upcoming weekend with … wait for it … Northern Brown Ale II: The Wrath of Khan.

By which I mean to say, of course:  Dear Spoiled Batch — “From hell’s heart, I strike at thee!”

* * *

Imagine, for a moment, that it’s the twenty-fourth century and you’re on Deep Space Nine. Miles O’Brien and Julian Bashir saunter into Quark’s. They’re joking and laughing, preparing for a long night of R&R that might involve some time in the holo-suites fighting the Battle of Britain, some darts, and maybe a hardy round or two of singing Jerusalem. O’Brien claps Bashir on the back (they can’t kiss because, after all, it’s Star Trek) and then, still chuckling, he bellies up to the bar.

Seeing him, Quark asks: “What’ll it be, Chief?”

“Drinks,” Miles answers, “for myself and the good Doctor.” He pauses a beat, and then says, “Two Synthales, please.”

Synthale?!

Suddenly, I’m out of the story. I love Deep Space Nine because, more than other Trek, the people seem real. They have interests that aren’t all about self improvement. They have close friends and acquaintances, station-board, and people with whom they definitely do not get along. They laugh like us. They love like us. But really? They drink a malt-ish beverage that sounds like it was pissed out of a factory that produces cleaning supplies on the side? Miles, fine Irishman that he is, might as well have ordered a Zima.

The issue, you see, is that beer is important. Beer isn’t just another drink like lemonade or prune juice. It is about identity, about personal and collective history, about — and this is a good Star Trek theme — what it means to be human.

Along with bread, beer is our oldest consumable. The Egyptians had it. The Sumerians had it. There is evidence that our neolithic ancestors had it, and maybe their ancestors before them. It was the beverage of choice for English Earls and Viking marauders (for whom mead was only a sometimes drink). Laborers from the Middle Ages through the nineteenth century drank it three meals a day to stave off hunger and save themselves from dysentery. Alehouses drove the formation of civil society in England, and colonial taverns became the spark of the American revolution.

And it is definitive, to a certain degree, of national culture. What is more German that a Munich biergarten, where visitors drink dark, malty lagers? What’s more English than a pub serving hand-pulled pints of bitter, or porter, or mild? What’s more Irish than a Guinness? More American that a Budweiser at a football game? In a beer, you have a mix of personal taste, heritage, national and regional loyalties that a synthale, such as it is, cannot reproduce.

Because beer is important.

Which is a long way of saying that I brewed on Sunday — a Northern English Brown Ale — and I’m really excited about it. It occurs to me that there is really no good way of talking about brewing procedure on this blog. If you already know how to do it, anything I could say would be uninformative. And if you don’t, you’d be better served by a good book on the subject.

So I will skip that part, and tell you instead that the reason I’m so excited about this batch is that (I think that) I’m finally getting the hang of it. The difficult part of making beer is managing to efficiently convert the starches in malted grain into sugars that can be fermented by yeast. And because of some small modifications that I’ve made to my technique, I did that, yesterday, better than I ever have before. In the past, ten pounds of malted barley has yielded for me a beverage that is about 4.5% alcohol. That same ten pounds, using this new method, should yield a beverage that is about 5% alcohol. It doesn’t seem like a big deal or a big jump in the final result. But better efficiency means that I will have to use less grain in the future, which means lower costs and less waste. For five-gallon beer batches, whatever. But it is a point of pride for me to know that I am getting to the point where I can do this as well as anybody out there.

As to the final product — the brown ale itself — I am actually a little bit nervous about how it will turn out. There were some problems with my yeast that may require a second addition, which may mean a beer filled with unfortunate off-flavors. But while I do enjoy a warm pint of English ale, the process, not the product, has really always been the point for me. The two things I like most about beer are both in the making: 1) the fact depending on how they are prepared, I can use just four basic ingredients — grain, hops, yeast, and water — to make hundreds of brews as different as Pilsner, IPA, and Stout. And 2) the fact that by brewing, I am connecting with that strain of human ingenuity that places me in line with folks going back to before recorded history.

But still, tasty beer is better than the other kind. So I would appreciate it very much (very much) if you would keep your fingers crossed about this one. If it turns out poorly, I will have learned a lot that I consider important to making good beer in the future. But wouldn’t it be better if I were able to contemplate those very important lessons over a nice tall glass of really fine brown ale?

Just sayin’.

Meanwhile, here is the recipe I used, which is a slightly revised version of this one that I posted last month:

5 lbs. Maris Otter Malt
4 lbs. British Mild Malt
1 lbs. Victory Malt
0.33 lbs. British Chocolate Malt

1 oz. Fuggles Hops, boiled for 60 minutes
1 oz. Kent Golding Hops, boiled for 10 minutes

Wyeast Thames Valley Yeast

* * *

Finally, just a technical announcement about the blog. Because of an overflow of spamminess, I have been forced to modify the comments system just a little bit, adding a measure to force you to prove that you’re human before you’re allowed to submit a posting. I apologize for the inconvenience. But the spam-bots were drowning me, and I couldn’t take it anymore.

Northern Brown Ale

It’s brewing time again — or at least planning-to-brew time.  Now that I have an appropriate temperature control mechanism, brewing during the summer is a piece of cake.  So I figure that when I get home from a short trip at the beginning of August, I’m going to start beer number five for the year.  It will be a Northern Brown Ale, in the style of something like a Samuel Smith Nut Brown, or (in a roundabout way) a Newcastle.  Which means medium dark, slightly sweet, nutty, a little bit bready, and not too very bitter.  Like so many English styles, I consider Northern Brown to be one of my favorites.  But more than others, it has a special place in my heart.  It was drinking (of all things) Newcastle when I first came to grad school that made me decide that I wanted to brew in the first place.  And a Northern Brown (of slightly unfortunate quality) was my very first brew in Bloomington.

In the meanwhile, here is the recipe that I plan to follow.  If anybody out there brews, or anybody out there has any associates who brew, I would really appreciate any feedback you could offer.

5.00 lb. Maris Otter Malt
4.00 lb. British Mild Malt
1.00 lb. Victory Malt
0.25 lb. British Chocolate Malt

1.00 oz. Kent Goldings Hops (for 60 minutes)
1.00 oz. Kent Goldings Hops (for 10 minutes)

Wyeast 1318 – London Ale III Yeast

Black Dot Bitter

So I’ve bottled my latest foray into beer brewing. It shall be called “Black Dot Bitter,” because I marked the caps with a black dot to distinguish them from (the unmarked) bottles of my previous beer attempt.

I did some tasting as I was bottling, and it was very yummy. A little bit on the bitter side, even for an English Bitter-style beer. But there’s a considerable quantity of malty sweetness to counterbalance it. So I can’t say that that makes me unhappy.

This, as some of you may recall, is my first attempt at all-grain brewing. As in: I’ve done away with cans of pre-mashed malt syrup, and started instead from just malted barley. It is a considerably more involved process than starting from syrup. And there are some things, in retrospect, that I could have done better. But overall, I have to say that I’m really proud of the end result, and mean to try it again.

When it gets warmer, I think, I’m going to try a Belgian Trappist-style dubbel. Think Chimay Rouge, or the like.

Meanwhile, here’s my formula for Black Dot Bitter:

9.0 lb. Marris Otter Malt
0.5 lb. British Amber Malt
0.5 lb. British Crystal Malt 50L

1.0 oz. Northdown Hops
1.0 oz. Kent Golding Hops

Wyeast London Ale III (1318) Yeast

The specific gravity of the unfermented liquid was somewhere around 1.042.
And the final ABV is somewhere around 4%.